Impasto Pizza Is Slinging Superb Square Slices In Clinton Hill

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Will or not it’s “third time’s a attraction” right here in Clinton Hill? For a lot of the previous decade, this tiny Brooklyn slice joint on Waverly Avenue was dwelling to the utilitarian, principally unloved Mario’s Pizza. The crew from close by Aita, a well-liked rustic Italian restaurant, took over in 2017, serving each Calabrese-style and basic NYC spherical pies, however a horrible fireplace all however destroyed the place two years later (fortunately, nobody was damage).

Then, final summer season, crew Aita determined to attempt once more, this time with Roman-ish sq. slices and pies, and the store was reborn as Impasto Pizza al Taglio. After a sluggish begin crammed with acquainted Covid-era compromises—truncated hours, abbreviated menu—right now Impasto is absolutely hitting its stride and appears poised to grow to be one of many metropolis’s nice neighborhood slice retailers.

The pizza at Impasto is superb, with an ethereal, delightfully chewy crust that you simply may affiliate with the high-hydration pies of Rome or, right here in NYC, at locations like PQR or the late Mani In Pasta. However as co-owner Luca Pelliccioni defined to me, it isn’t strictly Roman-style due to the sheer weight of toppings he piles on. They’re completely scrumptious, nevertheless, and given the regular stream of completely happy prospects popping inside or, extra usually, ordering from the sidewalk window final weekend, the locals have undoubtedly taken discover.

I cherished the baseline Margherita, loaded with gooey mozzarella and a tomato sauce that nailed that correct sweet-acid steadiness. Add a large number of meat on high, within the type of barely spicy, splendidly greasy Pepperoni cups, and you have got a top-tier contender for finest slice of this type on the town. Extra good meat and cheese may be discovered on the Bada Bing, an expensive slice with mountains of porky capicola, artichoke hearts, and large blobs of creamy, fast-melting burrata.

The Roman basic Patate e Rosmarino slice was fantastically finished, the potatoes minimize tremendous skinny and charred to crisp, the rosemary sprigs sprinkled with a heavy hand, and plenty of flaky sea salt including much more life to the social gathering. However my favourite slice of the afternoon feast was most likely the Salsiccia e Funghi, a wealthy, earthy concoction of sausage crumbles, fats chunks of mushroom, and baked-on cheese.

Slices I did not have room to eat however will certainly attempt subsequent time: Radicchio e Taleggio, Burrata and Peppers, and regardless of the Double Crunch (mainly a pizza-dough sandwich) particular is that day. For one thing candy, Impasto additionally sells Aita’s Tiramisu. Varied gentle drinks spherical out the choices.




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Scott Lynch / Gothamist


Impasto is positioned at 373 Waverly Avenue, simply north of Inexperienced Avenue, and is at the moment open on Tuesday by way of Sunday from midday to 9 p.m., and on Monday from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. (718-789-1520; impastonyc.com)



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